Heard Through The Vine
By: Eric Asimov, New York Times, February 7, 2013
In a dozen years of tastings, the Dining section wine panel had seldom if ever faced a joyous trove like this one. We each had before us 20 glasses of red Burgundy from the 2010 vintage, all from villages in the Côte de Nuits, somewhat modest wines in the Burgundian hierarchy yet beautiful nonetheless.
The panel tasted Burgundy, which has achieved a far higher level of consistency among good producers than many other vaunted regions.
Biondi-Santi’s 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is just as terrific in bottle as it was when I tasted it from cask last year. A dark, translucent red, it reveals superb freshness in its aromatics, with notes of small red fruits, spices, flowers, mint and anise that you could get lost in. It is perhaps less rewarding on the palate today, but its class is amply evident in the purity of its fruit and silkiness of its tannins. This is a wine built for tertiary development that will occur over the following years and decades. Readers who appreciate classically built, age-worthy wines and have the time to wait will find much to admire. In the meantime, this Brunello is all about potential, and there is plenty of that here. It is a great effort. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2041.
Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001