“Without question, this is California “grand cru.” It’s hard to imagine another California wine of any stripe that has provided so many fireworks over the past two decades.” - Stephen Tanzer

“About Harlan Estate, I had written impetuously “Why doesn’t all wine taste like this?” - Jancis Robinson

Type the words “empty wine bottles” into eBay’s search engine and you will soon be presented with a number of options to purchase all manner of empties from the world’s greatest wine estates. Within seconds, I found examples of magnums and bottles of distinguished vintages from Bordeaux and California. I can understand keeping a bottle as a trophy from a particularly special vintage or grower, but I have no inclination to start a collection of empties. So why would somebody want to buy an empty bottle, in some cases for hundreds of pounds?

As eBay says, there are myriad reasons for buying old bottles, from decorating a restaurant to storing homemade wine. But let’s speculate for a moment. How probable is it that one might be tempted to purchase an empty bottle from a particularly valuable and sought-after domaine, refill it with a similarly aged wine of above-average quality (but by no means as valuable) and try to pass it off as the original? It would be a fun trick to play at a dinner party. But could it actually fool an expert?

“There have been fakes for hundreds of years, certainly in France,” says wine authenticator Maureen Downey, owner of Chai Consulting in San Francisco. “As somebody who is experienced at looking at these things, you can tell when the capsule isn’t right. It is believed that one of the methods of making a fake wine is by refilling an empty bottle. We often find it is a very old bottle with a brand new cork but no indication of recorking.”

As the prices for fine wine have increased, so have fears about counterfeits. One Hong Kong merchant told me that restaurants there are now more diligent about smashing the empties of particularly prestigious wines. Although not an exact science, the authenticity of a product—which can be verified by the glass, label, weight and color of the liquid—remains a very real concern.

Take, for example, the European debut of California-based Spectrum Wine Auctions, which last week came to London for its much-billed “Evening Sale.” Hours before Spectrum and its local partner, Vanquish wine merchants, were due to accept bids at a sale room in the Mandarin Oriental hotel, they released a statement saying they were withdrawing 13 lots from the auction, including a number of bottles with the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti label, due to “apparent label discrepancies.” The domaine, through its U.K. agent Corney & Barrow, confirmed it couldn’t verify the wines’ authenticity. Eight lots from Burgundy’s Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé were also withdrawn. Richard Brierley, head of fine wine at Vanquish, says those lots were withdrawn “as a matter of precaution” after a specific request from the domaine. Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé declined to comment.

Spectrum withdrew a number of bottles with the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti label from its London auction last week, due to “apparent label discrepancies.”

The red flag was originally raised by Los Angeles-based collector Don Cornwell. Mr. Cornwell, who also happens to be a lawyer, completed his own detective work when he viewed Spectrum’s wine catalog and noticed several incongruities in the labels of some of the rarest and most sought-after Burgundy wines. He posted his concerns, in forensic detail, on the forum of Internet wine site wineberserkers.com. This alerted Corney & Barrow, who then raised the issue with Spectrum. Among these concerns was the observation that on a bottle of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 1978, which had an estimate of £6,000, a label on the shoulder of the shipper, Percy Fox, misspelled the address as “Sackvilee Street” rather than Sackville Street.

“It is concerning to see a label on which the then-London address of Percy Fox & Co. is misspelled,” says Simon Lawson, general manager of Diageo-owned Percy Fox, which was the official U.K. agent for Domaine de la Romanée-Conti until 1993. “Our suggestion would be that any wine which displays labeling errors like this are referred to the domaine for verification before being offered for sale.”

In the auction catalog, Spectrum and Vanquish say all of their wines were carefully inspected and vetted by their team of international experts, who spent long hours meticulously scrutinizing each detail of every consignment. They also added, in a statement, that the wines were withdrawn “through an abundance of caution and in line with our commitment to excellence in due-diligence and verification,” so that the issues could be properly investigated. At the time of writing, Spectrum President Jason Boland says the investigation is ongoing. Mr. Brierley adds: “We are committed to resolving the matters raised and having the relevant producers involved in that process.”

But the incident does raise questions as to the provenance of old and rare fine-wine bottles coming onto the market, especially viewed in the present context of fine-wine prices. “Clearly there is a problem,” says Corney & Barrow Managing Director Adam Brett-Smith, and “clearly it needs addressing.” The withdrawn lots didn’t stop staggering sums being paid for rare wines at the Spectrum and Vanquish wine auction. A three-liter Jeroboam of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 1990 sold for £40,250, while a single bottle of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti from 1945 fetched £28,750. These are sums that could only be dreamed of two decades ago. I wonder how much the empties would sell for.

The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova is quite a bit darker and richer than the straight Brunello. Cherries, plums, spices and French oak meld together beautifully in this silky, textured red. In 2005 the Tenuta Nuova boasts fabulous overall balance in a fairly restrained style for this bottling. Kirsch, roses and spices linger on the dark, enveloping finish. This is a terrific effort from Casanova di Neri. The Tenuta Nuova is made from vineyards in Le Cetine and Pietradonice, both located in the southern part of Montalcino. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022.
Antonio Galloni (Wine Advocate) 93pts. Php4,650

The wines of Casanova di Neri are renowned for their elegant, modern style and enjoy a steady flow of accolades from specialty magazines and contests the world over. In 2006, the Wine Spectator named their Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova 2001 the world’s top wine, calling it “one of the best examples of the recent winemaking renaissance in Tuscany”. Of the five wines made here, all except one (the Cabernet Pietradonice) are made with 100 percent Sangiovese Grosso. True products of the warm Mediterranean climate and sandy soils that characterize Montalcino, Casanova di Neri’s wines are pungent, complex super high quality wines that can age well for decades.

Paolo Scavino Barolo Carobric 2006 “A deep, sensual beauty endowed with gorgeous purity in its layers of dark red fruits, smoke and tobacco. Deceptively medium in body, the wine caresses the palate all the way through to the firm, sturdy finish. The wine’s balance, depth and overall sense of harmony are remarkable. Carobric is a blend of several vineyards, mostly Rocche di Castiglione, with a touch of Bric del Fiasc and Cannubi.” Galloni 93pts. (Php5000 per bottle)

Paolo Scavino Barolo Cannubi 2006 “opens with an attractive, finely-knit bouquet that leads to an open, soft core of perfumed fruit. Rich, and expansive on the palate, this textured, vivid Barolo reveals terrific length on the palate and finessed tannins that inform the silky finish. Though medium in body, the wine packs plenty of punch and is almost certain to put on weight in the bottle.” Galloni 94pts (Php5600 per bottle)

Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc 2006 “is a dramatic, sweeping wine that bursts onto the palate in a powerful expression of this Castiglione Falletto vineyard. Dark red fruits, smoke and grilled herbs are just some of the nuances that come to life as this imposing, focused Barolo opens up in the glass. Today, the wine is a touch austere, but in a few years the structure should fill out nicely. It is impossible to ignore the sheer pedigree and class here.” Galloni 95pts. (Php5600 per bottle)

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Price: Php 10,900 per bottle

The Chambertin “Clos de Bèze” 2008 is an ample and elegant wine. The nose releases woody, mineral and fruity scents. There is a frank, really pure attack on the palate and a long finish with mocha aromas. This rich, powerful and sophisticated wine has all the qualities necessary to have great ageing potential.

PRESS NOTES

Allen Meadows: 92-95/100
Revue du Vin de France: 16,5/20
Bourgogne Aujourd’hui: 17/20

Price: Php 6,000.00

The estate’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna di Pianrosso Santa Caterina d’ Oro is rich and sensual in its layers of dark fruit.

Ripe and perfumed , the wine reveals tons of persistence, great depth, fine, silky tannins and an expansive, multi-dimensional personality that emerges over time.

Menthol, pine, spices and a host of other balsamic nuances swirl around in the glass, adding further complexity to the dark fruit and rounding out the wine beautifully.

Wine lovers who are patient will be rewarded with a superb Brunello. This is a terrific effort from proprietor Paolo Bianchini. Ciacci’s Pianrosso is an old-vines selection that spent 36 months in Slavonian oak.

94+ points! Antonio Galloni of eRobertParker.com

Ciacci Piccolomini d’ Aragona, Ateo 2007 DOC, TUSCANY, ITALY

(Grape Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot)…Php 1,100.00

The estate’s 2007 Ateo is Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot now that the Sangiovese has been eliminated from the blend. Although the wine is made from international varieties here those grapes speak with a distinctly Tuscan accent. Plummy dark fruit leads to sweet herbs, spices, earthiness and minerals as this rich, deep wine opens up in the glass. This is one of the few 2007s that will actually benefit from another year or so in bottle. It is gorgeous stuff! 

91 points! Antonio Galloni of eRobertParker.com

Ciacci Piccolomini d’ Aragona, Fabivs S. Antino 2006 DOC, TUSCANY, ITALY

(Grape Varietal: Syrah)…Php 1,400.00

The 2006 Fabius (Syrah) is a gorgeous, medium-bodied wine loaded with dark fruit, smoke and earthiness. Previous vintages have been more concentrated in style, and the 2006 seems to give more attention to finesse rather than sheer heft. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014.

89 points! Antonio Galloni of eRobertParker.com

Ciacci Piccolomini d’ Aragona, Rosso di Montalcino 2008 DOC, TUSCANY, ITALY

(Grape Varietal: Sangiovese)…Php 1,500.00

The 2008 Rosso di Montalcino is a big, generous Rosso loaded with fruit. The wine reveals gorgeous balance, no hard edges and a compelling personality, all of which make it a great choice for near-term drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. 

89 points! Antonio Galloni of eRobertParker.com

Ciacci Piccolomini d’ Aragona, Brunello di Montalcino 2005 DOCG, TUSCANY, ITALY

(Grape Varietal: Sangiovese)…Php 2,800.00

The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino is wonderfully plump and juicy in its expressive red fruit. Floral notes are woven throughout, giving the wine its sense of lift and proportion. Though not as explosive as the 2004, the 2005 Brunello di Montalcino offers outstanding persistence on the palate and a long, generous finish. This is a terrific effort from Ciacci. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. 

92 points! Antonio Galloni of eRobertParker.com

Ciacci Piccolomini d’ Aragona, Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 2004 DOCG, TUSCANY,ITALY

(Grape Varietals: Sangiovese) …Php 3,700.00

“The estate’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso possesses striking depth as endless layers of sweet, perfumed fruit emerge with tons of grace. This, too, is an intense, full-bodied wine. The balance here is utterly exceptional, and the wine’s sheer plumpness makes for a highly rewarding glass of Brunello. Succulent dark cherries, spices, underbrush, minerals and new leather come to life as the wine sits in the glass, yet this remains a backward, structured Brunello in need of serious bottle age. 

94 points! Antonio Galloni of eRobertParker.com

Ciacci Piccolomini d’ Aragona, Brunello di Montalcino, Pianrosso Reserva 2004 DOCG, TUSCANY,ITALY

(Grape Varietals: Sangiovese) …Php 6,000.00

The estate’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna di Pianrosso Santa Caterina d’ Oro is rich and sensual in its layers of dark fruit. Ripe and perfumed , the wine reveals tons of persistence, great depth, fine, silky tannins and an expansive, multi-dimensional personality that emerges over time. Menthol, pine, spices and a host of other balsamic nuances swirl around in the glass, adding further complexity to the dark fruit and rounding out the wine beautifully. Wine lovers who are patient will be rewarded with a superb Brunello. This is a terrific effort from proprietor Paolo Bianchini. Ciacci’s Pianrosso is an old-vines selection that spent 36 months in Slavonian oak.

94+ points! Antonio Galloni of eRobertParker.com

Tua Rita, Giustro di Notri 2007 IGT, TUSCANY,ITALY

(Grape Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Cabernet Franc)…Php 4,800.00

The 2007 Giusto dei Notri is a gorgeous, dark beauty endowed with layers of sensual black and blue fruits. Soft, seamless and utterly enveloping, the 2007 Giusto dei Notri impresses for its depth and richness, both of which have been achieved without any excess heaviness. Today the oak is rather pronounced and the wine needs further time in bottle for its full range of aromas and flavors to emerge, but make no mistake about, this is a terrific and highly enjoyable wine. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. 

95 points! Antonio Galloni of eRobertParker.com

Tua Rita, Rosso di Notri 2009 IGT, TUSCANY,ITALY

(Grape Varietal: Sangiovese)…Php 1,300.00

It offers up an enticing bouquet, along with an array of sweet herbs, ripe red fruits, spices, tobacco and minerals. This is an especially complex Rosso di Notri that delivers superb value for the money.

Tua Rita, Lodano Bianco 2008 IGT, TUSCANY,ITALY

(Grape Varietals: Traminer, Chardonnay & Riesling)…Php 2,400.00

It offers excellent length on the palate and a long fresh finish with lovely notes of spices, sage and crushed rocks that develop in the glass.

Paolo Scavino, Barbera d’Alba DOC Affinato in Carati 2007, PIEDMONT, ITALY

(Grape Varietal: Barbera)…Php 2,000.00

Scavino diverged sharply from the tough-as-nails-when-young traditional style of Barolo to produce soft and lush wines that are delicious within months of release as well as later in their evolution, applying the same winemaking techniques to Barbera and Dolcetto. The barrique-aged Barbera “Carati” is a sumptuous wine.

Paolo Scavino, Barolo Bric del Fiasc DOCG 2004, PIEDMONT, ITALY

(Grape Varietal: Nebbiolo)…Php 6,550.00

The estate’s 2004 Barolo Bric del Fiasc is another awesome wine. Initially linear on entry, it explodes on the palate with a compelling array of dark fruit, smoke, tar, licorice, new leather, plums and baking spices. Although Bric del Fiasc is typically a wine that relies on power, the 2004 is notably refined and elegant, with sweet silky tannins that support the fruit from start to finish. Simply put, this is a remarkable wine from Enrico Scavino. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. 

96 points! Antonio Galloni of eRobertParker.com

Paolo Scavino, Barolo Bric del Fiasc DOCG 2005, PIEDMONT, ITALY

(Grape Varietal: Nebbiolo)…Php 5,000.00

The 2005 Barolo Bric del Fiasc is a huge, muscular wine. In 2005 the wine shows a decidedly fruit-driven, fresh style. The purity of fruit here is remarkable. The dark, brooding quality that is often present in the wine is absent, while floral, perfumed elements dominate in this vintage. The fruit remains dense, ripe and primary. From start to finish, this is a remarkable Bric del Fiasc. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. 

95 points! Antonio Galloni of eRobertParker.com

Paolo Scavino, Barolo Cannubi DOCG 2004, PIEDMONT, ITALY

(Grape Varietal: Nebbiolo)…Php 6,550.00

Scavino’s 2004 Barolo Cannubi is an imposing effort. It possesses a lovely inner perfume with layers of ripe fruit, menthol and spices that caress the palate, showing superb grace and purity. The tannins are sweet, ripe and round, adding to the wine’s stylish, elegant personality. This is a surprisingly big Cannubi from Scavino. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.

94 points! Antonio Galloni of eRobertParker.com

Paolo Scavino, Barolo Cannubi DOCG 2005, PIEDMONT, ITALY

(Grape Varietal: Nebbiolo)…Php 5,000.00

The 2005 Barolo Cannubi is simply beautiful. Sweet, open aromatics lead to a silky-textured core of ripe, perfumed fruit as the wine reveals awesome purity, superb length and classy balance. Floral notes develop in the glass, adding further complexity and sweet tannins frame the long finish. The wine needs a few years to come together, but this is striking Cannubi. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025. 

93 points! Antonio Galloni of eRobertParker.com

Paolo Scavino, Barolo Carobric DOCG 2005, PIEDMONT, ITALY

(Grape Varietal: Nebbiolo)…Php 5,000.00

Sweet roses, minerals, mint, licorice and dark raspberries flow from the 2005 Barolo Carobric. This richly- textured, multi-dimensional wine reveals tons of complexity. The finish is long, sweet and incredibly pure. Carobric is a wine that has grown significantly in stature over the last few years and the 2005 is terrific. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025. 

93 points! Antonio Galloni of eRobertParker.com

Bruno Giacosa, Barbaresco Santo Stefano DOCG 2007, PIEDMONT, ITALY

(Grape Varietal: Nebbiolo)…Php 8,050.00

The 2007 Barbaresco Santo Stefano is a gorgeous wine that combines element of ripeness, structure and the intense spiciness that makes the best wines from the Santo Stefano vineyard so compelling. Floral, high-toned notes appear on the silky finish, rounding out this highly promising wine. Gorgeous textural elegance and balance are the hallmarks of the 2007 Santo Stefano. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032. 

95 points! Antonio Galloni of eRobertParker.com

Azienda Agricola Falleto di Bruno Giacosa, Barolo DOCG 2005, PIEDMONT, ITALY

(Grape Varietal: Nebbiolo)…Php 6,000.00

The 2005 Barolo Falletto offers up a gorgeous bouquet of red cherries, flowers, spices and menthol. This is a relatively delicate, elegant Barolo Falletto yet it offers gorgeous balance, tons of inner perfume and a long, refined finish. It is one of the overachievers in 2005. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. 

94 points! Antonio Galloni of eRobertParker.com

Azienda Agricola Falleto di Bruno Giacosa, Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto DOCG 2004, PIEDMONT, ITALY

(Grape Varietal: Nebbiolo)…Php 17,400.00

The 2004 Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto is off the charts. Sweet roses, menthol, tar, licorice and minerals come together in a sensual, elegant style that recalls Giacosa’s legendary 1989 Riserva Collina Rionda, a wine many observers (this one included) place at the top of the hierarchy of all-time legendary Barolos. Ripe, sensual, and utterly spellbinding, the 2004 Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto offers superb elegance and pedigree. At this stage the wine remains surprisingly accessible. Readers will want to taste the 2004 Rocche as soon as possible as it will almost certainly head for a long period of dormancy in the near future. This magical Barolo will likely merit a perfect score in the future. The 2004 Rocche is the last wine Giacosa and former longtime oenologist Dante Scaglione produced together from start to finish and it is an appropriate bookend to a wonderful partnership that yielded so many profound wines. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2044.

99 points! Antonio Galloni of eRobertParker.com